Kirby Stephen to Half-Way (Keld).

This, really, was the recovery day. It was an excellent day's walking with extensive views in panorama, and finished off in among greenery overlooking the River Swale.
The walk out of KS is a little of a niggle. It's about 3-4 miles of gentle climb along lanes and tracks heading for the summit of the day at Nine Standards Rigg. Although it took a while it was without the extensive puffing and panting elicited by the slopes of the Lakes. The view at the top was wonderful, and the rain promised by the weather-forecasters again came to nothing (sack 'em all). For those that know we were on the red route. Our crossing of the moor tops couldn't have been better - dry underfoot and clear visibility and slight wind. How dismal a crossing it could be if the peat is sodden and the winds are blowing. Crossing one of the gills, with a 10ft drop, indicates just how bad the erosion is. We lunched sat in the grass, backs to the wall, on the banks of Ney Gill in bright and warm sunshine listening to curlew and oystercatcher.

We passed Ravenseat Farm, avoiding the cream-teas (and the hostess, insider info), and soon make Swaledale proper to walk along the top of the limestone ridge into Keld.

The book says this is a watershed - rivers now run to the North Sea rather than the Irish - that we are now in the Yorkshire Dales, and have left Cumbria and the Lakes but, also, it marks the half way point - symbolically if not literally.

Today's travellers not only included Jen's mate - he really is a terrier - but also three very pleasant American's who shared our Jolly Farmers B&B and also the walk at several times today.

 A view of the river from the path.

Amazing what you see - a pair of these on the outskirts of Hartley village.