Lord Stone's Cafe to Blakey Ridge

Some of the 'unlisted' ups and downs

Somewhat annoyingly the continuous round of at least five ups and downs do not seem to get much mention in the guide books. It didn’t make for much of a good start as the up followed almost immediately by a down, then followed by another, did not allow any sort of rhythm and severely hampered distance gained on the ground. This combined with heavy squally showers necessitating waterproofs gave rise to several stops and starts.

All that said the views from the top were spectacular – 360d views of all of the surrounding countryside (and the approaching rain). Kirby Bank was followed by Hasty Bank, Clay Top Bank, Carr Ridge and Urra Moor; the names paint the picture. After we had walked off all the day-trippers we shared our thoughts with grouse and heather.

Eventually we joined the bed of the old Rosedale Ironstone Railway which took across  Farndale Moor and High Blakey Moor – it was easy if somewhat tedious walking with the outlying scenery changing little as we plodded forth. It was probably the coldest day of the trip so far as, after one squall of rain we kept our coats on and they never came off again. Our day eventually came to a close at the Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge.

Danby Wiske to Lord Stone's (non) cafe

We left Danby Wiske already knowing that we were going to walk further than originally planned in order to shorten the 20 miles predicted for the following day. Initially it was another day of flat walking through fields of cereals and drying rape seed. The first couple of hours passed with ease.

We reached Ingleby where it was too early for lunch so we pressed on. Just after we passed the church we came to our second honesty box of the day – this one containing homemade flapjack of various flavours, so one all round please.

Into Arncliffe Wood we stopped for lunch. It started to rain so out came the waterproofs but they weren’t on long. Then they were off, then back on again, the weather was playing with us. 

At Scarth Moor Wood, just before we got onto the moorland, it became apparent that full waterproofs were now needed (we could see the weather closing in) and so, for only the second time on this walk we had coats and trousers on.

It then rained, stair-rods, for the next couple of miles (about an hour ) as we passed Huthwaite Green and climbed up on to Live Moor. It was warm so as soon as possible they, the waterproofs, all came off again and, for us, the sun returned.

Having reached the moor top we walked the length of Carlton Moor to reach the trig point on Carlton Bank where we had our first views of the North Sea (over Middlesboro). The vista here was a full 360d on the Cleveland Hills and plain. 

The Lord Stone’s Cafe is closed for renovation – so no cup of tea. Instead we walked down into Carlton in order to collect the car (before the next band of rain) and our onward drive to Blakey Ridge.

Strange things you see on a walk. The skull was pretty unusual too.

Richmond to Danby Wiske

Richmond was a shocker. To be in the wide outside meeting a handful of people a day for the last week it was a shock to the system to suddenly find oneself surrounded by the hustle and bustle of modern day life. Give me the former every time.
We have seen some rain but, fortunately, we have avoided the worst of it - the five hours of continuous rain overnight had all but petered out when we started off this morning, it was coats and gaiters only and they soon came off when the heat started to be generated.
Today's walking was flat, almost pancake flat. Initially it followed the River Swale, now brown and muddy and increased in flow and volume by the rain. Then it moved on to field verges, green lanes and field crossings. We met and overtook Paul and Soph (who will be joining us in The White Swan in Danby Wiske later) and motored on; and met no other Coasters today while on route.

Catterick Bridge was a nightmare, built for busy traffic rather than foot-traffic waiting to cross the road. The A1 a dream - we just went through the bridge underneath it. We plodded onwards, with Yellowhammers in the hedges, flowers in the verges and not much else. The book says, of one road trodden, "this is a very, very quiet country road" - 40 cars, one lorry and three bicycles later we were almost glad to get back onto the fields.
Back at Danby Wiske early we (almost) gate-crashed a christening party that was being held in the pub - we felt really underdressed, us in our sweaty walkers, they in their Sunday best (including the lady in her cycling shorts!)

Reeth to Richmond

Today started with a Coasters breakfast as it contained us, the 'Girls with Pearls' (two ladies from Vancover who we passed on the path out of Kirby Stephen), and the Aussie with the French Canadian (Alan and Soph). We compared notes as to what had gone before and of what was to come - all around the wit of our host Les (a typical and direct Yorkshireman - a type of shut-up and eat your breakfast, and ensure you leave none sort of bloke).
Soon onto the path at our second earliest time (8.50) we charged into Reeth to meet the 'lady with the blisters' and her husband who were doggedly putting in the miles. So, with the Pearl Girls hanging onto our slipstream, we set off on today's task - and back to the river Swale.

Today's walk was very much like 'home' walking - lots of green fields, rolling hills and agriculture. The miles just slipped away. We passed Marrick Priory and hiked up the Nuns Steps to reach the second highest point of the day with views just beginning to appear to our front and rear. Again it was hot and dry (the weather has been good to us).

At Marske we met the couple of the 'lady with the blisters' and marveled as to how on earth they could have got in front of us so, at the 11am biscuit stop out came the maps and we decided they had done the whole route till that point on one of the back lanes out of Reeth. They passed us at this point and we never saw them again (or at least only fleetingly as they ploughed onto Richmond).

Next, up the second climb of the day, and the highest point, to the white cairn of Applegarth Scar, another panoramic vista, lunch sat on limestone outcrops, a slow-worm on the path, the path
through the wood and we were soon entering Richmond.

Today's walk had taken us just a little over 4.5hours and went as a doddle. It was an easy walking day but had none of the scenery of yesterday.

And in the distance - the east coast.

To be read with a high level of innuendo

Keld to Reeth.

A late start today - always the way when you know you have more time than you need. Rain had passed through the previous night and so we had another walking day that was dry with wall to wall sunshine (and again it was hot).

We chose the low-level route through the Swaledale valley as most guidebooks stated this was the most scenic route. The small pull out of Keld, and the 50 odd metres we also walked of the Pennine Way started the day. With every foot gained the views of the valley opened more and more - it was spectacular. For most of the morning we followed the river Swale, sharing it with a few Mallards, Curlew, Grey Wagtails and the occasional walker (two of whom looked to be in the late eighties still plodding along). Into Gunnerside, again we more time than needed, we stopped for ice-creams and the use of toilets - which had a queue!
Back up again onto the open moor and we eventually stopped for lunch over-looking the valley - what better place to eat your ham and tomato sandwiches.

The books said on this stretch that one of the things remembered would be the tight, single-legged wall pass-throughs that came complete with sprung gate. Some call them 'stops' 'knee-bashers' or other such terms. Neil called them 'arse-bashers' as he was the one usually at the back of the queue with no-one holding the gate for him. The other thing that we all remarked upon was the number of dead rabbits - we saw many, and all looked to be in perfect health (just dead).
We strolled into Reeth 5.5hrs later to a welcome pot of tea. Taking the car to Richmond later in the day was unpleasant. We couldn't wait to get out and ate on the way back rather than trying to find somewhere in the metropolis.
No pictures at the mo - the internet connect here is too slow. Will post them as soon as we can.

Pictures now posted.....

Strange things you see on a walk.

Kirby Stephen to Half-Way (Keld).

This, really, was the recovery day. It was an excellent day's walking with extensive views in panorama, and finished off in among greenery overlooking the River Swale.
The walk out of KS is a little of a niggle. It's about 3-4 miles of gentle climb along lanes and tracks heading for the summit of the day at Nine Standards Rigg. Although it took a while it was without the extensive puffing and panting elicited by the slopes of the Lakes. The view at the top was wonderful, and the rain promised by the weather-forecasters again came to nothing (sack 'em all). For those that know we were on the red route. Our crossing of the moor tops couldn't have been better - dry underfoot and clear visibility and slight wind. How dismal a crossing it could be if the peat is sodden and the winds are blowing. Crossing one of the gills, with a 10ft drop, indicates just how bad the erosion is. We lunched sat in the grass, backs to the wall, on the banks of Ney Gill in bright and warm sunshine listening to curlew and oystercatcher.

We passed Ravenseat Farm, avoiding the cream-teas (and the hostess, insider info), and soon make Swaledale proper to walk along the top of the limestone ridge into Keld.

The book says this is a watershed - rivers now run to the North Sea rather than the Irish - that we are now in the Yorkshire Dales, and have left Cumbria and the Lakes but, also, it marks the half way point - symbolically if not literally.

Today's travellers not only included Jen's mate - he really is a terrier - but also three very pleasant American's who shared our Jolly Farmers B&B and also the walk at several times today.

 A view of the river from the path.

Amazing what you see - a pair of these on the outskirts of Hartley village.

Shap to Kirby Stephen.

Many of the books call this a 'recovery day' even if it is posted as being 20+ miles taking seven hours. Fortunately there are no steep gradients, but there were still a good many paces to be trod. We got back to Shap via the use of a taxi from KS and were ready for the off at 8.45. The first objective was

the bridge over the M6 - for some reason this was a landmark. We then made good time via Hardendale quarry and Oddendale before skirting Crosby Ravensworth Fell. The weather was excellent, a little overcast, no direct sunlight, dry with a little wind. Just right for walking.


It was an easy walk, uninteresting underfoot, but excellent for views of the retreating fells and the appearing Howgills. The smell of sheep was constantly in the air. Then it happened, round one of the many corners was Jen's friend - and we saw him and his adopted family several times during the day (and we beat them back into KS).
We had lunch near Sunbiggin Tarn before crossing Ravenstonedale Moor - which must be a bleak and inhospitable place when the wind and rain blow. We saw some lovely places, one of which was the bridge and setting of Scandal Beck. All in all the mileage to be covered detracted somewhat from our enjoyment of the scenery about us.

Following - strange things you see on a walk. How often do you see this? four all at one time in synchrony.