Lord Stone's Cafe to Blakey Ridge

Some of the 'unlisted' ups and downs

Somewhat annoyingly the continuous round of at least five ups and downs do not seem to get much mention in the guide books. It didn’t make for much of a good start as the up followed almost immediately by a down, then followed by another, did not allow any sort of rhythm and severely hampered distance gained on the ground. This combined with heavy squally showers necessitating waterproofs gave rise to several stops and starts.

All that said the views from the top were spectacular – 360d views of all of the surrounding countryside (and the approaching rain). Kirby Bank was followed by Hasty Bank, Clay Top Bank, Carr Ridge and Urra Moor; the names paint the picture. After we had walked off all the day-trippers we shared our thoughts with grouse and heather.

Eventually we joined the bed of the old Rosedale Ironstone Railway which took across  Farndale Moor and High Blakey Moor – it was easy if somewhat tedious walking with the outlying scenery changing little as we plodded forth. It was probably the coldest day of the trip so far as, after one squall of rain we kept our coats on and they never came off again. Our day eventually came to a close at the Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge.

Danby Wiske to Lord Stone's (non) cafe

We left Danby Wiske already knowing that we were going to walk further than originally planned in order to shorten the 20 miles predicted for the following day. Initially it was another day of flat walking through fields of cereals and drying rape seed. The first couple of hours passed with ease.

We reached Ingleby where it was too early for lunch so we pressed on. Just after we passed the church we came to our second honesty box of the day – this one containing homemade flapjack of various flavours, so one all round please.

Into Arncliffe Wood we stopped for lunch. It started to rain so out came the waterproofs but they weren’t on long. Then they were off, then back on again, the weather was playing with us. 

At Scarth Moor Wood, just before we got onto the moorland, it became apparent that full waterproofs were now needed (we could see the weather closing in) and so, for only the second time on this walk we had coats and trousers on.

It then rained, stair-rods, for the next couple of miles (about an hour ) as we passed Huthwaite Green and climbed up on to Live Moor. It was warm so as soon as possible they, the waterproofs, all came off again and, for us, the sun returned.

Having reached the moor top we walked the length of Carlton Moor to reach the trig point on Carlton Bank where we had our first views of the North Sea (over Middlesboro). The vista here was a full 360d on the Cleveland Hills and plain. 

The Lord Stone’s Cafe is closed for renovation – so no cup of tea. Instead we walked down into Carlton in order to collect the car (before the next band of rain) and our onward drive to Blakey Ridge.

Strange things you see on a walk. The skull was pretty unusual too.

Richmond to Danby Wiske

Richmond was a shocker. To be in the wide outside meeting a handful of people a day for the last week it was a shock to the system to suddenly find oneself surrounded by the hustle and bustle of modern day life. Give me the former every time.
We have seen some rain but, fortunately, we have avoided the worst of it - the five hours of continuous rain overnight had all but petered out when we started off this morning, it was coats and gaiters only and they soon came off when the heat started to be generated.
Today's walking was flat, almost pancake flat. Initially it followed the River Swale, now brown and muddy and increased in flow and volume by the rain. Then it moved on to field verges, green lanes and field crossings. We met and overtook Paul and Soph (who will be joining us in The White Swan in Danby Wiske later) and motored on; and met no other Coasters today while on route.

Catterick Bridge was a nightmare, built for busy traffic rather than foot-traffic waiting to cross the road. The A1 a dream - we just went through the bridge underneath it. We plodded onwards, with Yellowhammers in the hedges, flowers in the verges and not much else. The book says, of one road trodden, "this is a very, very quiet country road" - 40 cars, one lorry and three bicycles later we were almost glad to get back onto the fields.
Back at Danby Wiske early we (almost) gate-crashed a christening party that was being held in the pub - we felt really underdressed, us in our sweaty walkers, they in their Sunday best (including the lady in her cycling shorts!)

Reeth to Richmond

Today started with a Coasters breakfast as it contained us, the 'Girls with Pearls' (two ladies from Vancover who we passed on the path out of Kirby Stephen), and the Aussie with the French Canadian (Alan and Soph). We compared notes as to what had gone before and of what was to come - all around the wit of our host Les (a typical and direct Yorkshireman - a type of shut-up and eat your breakfast, and ensure you leave none sort of bloke).
Soon onto the path at our second earliest time (8.50) we charged into Reeth to meet the 'lady with the blisters' and her husband who were doggedly putting in the miles. So, with the Pearl Girls hanging onto our slipstream, we set off on today's task - and back to the river Swale.

Today's walk was very much like 'home' walking - lots of green fields, rolling hills and agriculture. The miles just slipped away. We passed Marrick Priory and hiked up the Nuns Steps to reach the second highest point of the day with views just beginning to appear to our front and rear. Again it was hot and dry (the weather has been good to us).

At Marske we met the couple of the 'lady with the blisters' and marveled as to how on earth they could have got in front of us so, at the 11am biscuit stop out came the maps and we decided they had done the whole route till that point on one of the back lanes out of Reeth. They passed us at this point and we never saw them again (or at least only fleetingly as they ploughed onto Richmond).

Next, up the second climb of the day, and the highest point, to the white cairn of Applegarth Scar, another panoramic vista, lunch sat on limestone outcrops, a slow-worm on the path, the path
through the wood and we were soon entering Richmond.

Today's walk had taken us just a little over 4.5hours and went as a doddle. It was an easy walking day but had none of the scenery of yesterday.

And in the distance - the east coast.

To be read with a high level of innuendo

Keld to Reeth.

A late start today - always the way when you know you have more time than you need. Rain had passed through the previous night and so we had another walking day that was dry with wall to wall sunshine (and again it was hot).

We chose the low-level route through the Swaledale valley as most guidebooks stated this was the most scenic route. The small pull out of Keld, and the 50 odd metres we also walked of the Pennine Way started the day. With every foot gained the views of the valley opened more and more - it was spectacular. For most of the morning we followed the river Swale, sharing it with a few Mallards, Curlew, Grey Wagtails and the occasional walker (two of whom looked to be in the late eighties still plodding along). Into Gunnerside, again we more time than needed, we stopped for ice-creams and the use of toilets - which had a queue!
Back up again onto the open moor and we eventually stopped for lunch over-looking the valley - what better place to eat your ham and tomato sandwiches.

The books said on this stretch that one of the things remembered would be the tight, single-legged wall pass-throughs that came complete with sprung gate. Some call them 'stops' 'knee-bashers' or other such terms. Neil called them 'arse-bashers' as he was the one usually at the back of the queue with no-one holding the gate for him. The other thing that we all remarked upon was the number of dead rabbits - we saw many, and all looked to be in perfect health (just dead).
We strolled into Reeth 5.5hrs later to a welcome pot of tea. Taking the car to Richmond later in the day was unpleasant. We couldn't wait to get out and ate on the way back rather than trying to find somewhere in the metropolis.
No pictures at the mo - the internet connect here is too slow. Will post them as soon as we can.

Pictures now posted.....

Strange things you see on a walk.

Kirby Stephen to Half-Way (Keld).

This, really, was the recovery day. It was an excellent day's walking with extensive views in panorama, and finished off in among greenery overlooking the River Swale.
The walk out of KS is a little of a niggle. It's about 3-4 miles of gentle climb along lanes and tracks heading for the summit of the day at Nine Standards Rigg. Although it took a while it was without the extensive puffing and panting elicited by the slopes of the Lakes. The view at the top was wonderful, and the rain promised by the weather-forecasters again came to nothing (sack 'em all). For those that know we were on the red route. Our crossing of the moor tops couldn't have been better - dry underfoot and clear visibility and slight wind. How dismal a crossing it could be if the peat is sodden and the winds are blowing. Crossing one of the gills, with a 10ft drop, indicates just how bad the erosion is. We lunched sat in the grass, backs to the wall, on the banks of Ney Gill in bright and warm sunshine listening to curlew and oystercatcher.

We passed Ravenseat Farm, avoiding the cream-teas (and the hostess, insider info), and soon make Swaledale proper to walk along the top of the limestone ridge into Keld.

The book says this is a watershed - rivers now run to the North Sea rather than the Irish - that we are now in the Yorkshire Dales, and have left Cumbria and the Lakes but, also, it marks the half way point - symbolically if not literally.

Today's travellers not only included Jen's mate - he really is a terrier - but also three very pleasant American's who shared our Jolly Farmers B&B and also the walk at several times today.

 A view of the river from the path.

Amazing what you see - a pair of these on the outskirts of Hartley village.

Shap to Kirby Stephen.

Many of the books call this a 'recovery day' even if it is posted as being 20+ miles taking seven hours. Fortunately there are no steep gradients, but there were still a good many paces to be trod. We got back to Shap via the use of a taxi from KS and were ready for the off at 8.45. The first objective was

the bridge over the M6 - for some reason this was a landmark. We then made good time via Hardendale quarry and Oddendale before skirting Crosby Ravensworth Fell. The weather was excellent, a little overcast, no direct sunlight, dry with a little wind. Just right for walking.


It was an easy walk, uninteresting underfoot, but excellent for views of the retreating fells and the appearing Howgills. The smell of sheep was constantly in the air. Then it happened, round one of the many corners was Jen's friend - and we saw him and his adopted family several times during the day (and we beat them back into KS).
We had lunch near Sunbiggin Tarn before crossing Ravenstonedale Moor - which must be a bleak and inhospitable place when the wind and rain blow. We saw some lovely places, one of which was the bridge and setting of Scandal Beck. All in all the mileage to be covered detracted somewhat from our enjoyment of the scenery about us.

Following - strange things you see on a walk. How often do you see this? four all at one time in synchrony.

Patterdale to Shap (a day late as a long day in the boots).

Getting up the weather was questionable but quickly deteriorated to 'pants' (technical term). Fortunately the thunder and lightening was at its worst while we ate breakfast. When we were due to leave it was still raining sufficiently hard to warrant full waterproofs and, given it was still about 18dC, it was due to be a wet day inside and out. We climbed up to Angletarn Pike and Angle Tarn in low cloud and heavy winds - to the extent that Jen had to be held onto Terra-firma.
We reached the summit of Kidsty Pike in three hours, and it felt a bit of a fraudulent victory for the highest point reached on the walk as the path to the summit was easy by Lakeland standards. Just at this time the weather cleared and we were able to see down into all the valleys. Twenty minutes later the low cloud was back. (Interestingly we met Jen's terrier mate on the peak of Kidsty Pike, but he had attached himself to someone else, no doubt ruining their day).

The drop down to Haweswater made everyone's toes sing a bit, but we managed to get onto the path without injury. The walk along the 2.5miles of Haweswater shore was a bit tedious - there were a few steep elevations but they came with very little improvement in the view, which was masked by trees. And it just went on and on and on.
In Burnbanks we had two treats - one was the noticeable change in scenery (greener, less rocky and few gradients), and the other was the judicious placing of an honesty box that was stocked with drinks of all sorts, fruit and chocolates. The weather prior to today had removed chocolate from the menu so to be just presented with it on a day/time when it was just needed was great.
Shap Abbey followed, no monks in residence, but another honesty box this time with beer! Unfortunately drinking beer was considered a no-no so it was just more soft drinks - and then Shap proper appeared.
A quick trip back to Patterdale to fetch the car, onward movement to Kirby Stephen through heavy downpours saw us in KS for after seven. We only had time for washes, eats and sleep ready for tomorrow.
Strange thing to see on a walk - honesty box containing beer.....

Stonethwaite (Borrowdale) to Patterdale via Grasmere

A slight change in travel plans this morning. Instead of driving one of our cars around, and then having to go back to it again at the end of the day, we decided to add to the local economy and went by taxi. The vehicle duly arrived on time and for the next 40 minutes, as we were driven to Stonethwaite, we had a potted history of the driver's life and times in Patterdale (she had been a/the school cook for the last 36 years and had just retired. Her leaving present is a ticket to the Christmas markets in Prague). It was a nice start to the morning - thank you taxi lady.
Stonethwaite. We had been here just three weeks ago in totally different weather conditions - this time it was clear skies and bright sunlight; last time it was wall-to-wall rain. We shared the path with a couple of lads rigged out with towels and swimming gear with the intention, no doubt, of spending a day swimming in the brook, and several other walkers who we were later to leave behind.
Greenup Gill, a long and steady climb that was not too taxing.

The pace was moderate as the sun was beginning to get to work. To the top (sufficient altitude to give Bob a nosebleed), care in selecting the right valley down, and then it was full steam ahead down the long (long) gradient of Easedale Beck. Considering we started the day at 9.45am and had only covered five miles on the ground we had lunch by the side of the beck just before one - gives you some idea of the gradient up/down.
At the end of this section we deviated - unintentionally - into Grasmere, full of tourists buying tat and eating lunches that we had no time for. We did however stop at the Traveller's Rest for a few drinks before starting what turned out to be a tremendous slog up Great Tongue and Tongue Gill. This was a slog because we already had eight odd miles in the legs, had done one heavy ascent and descent, the sun was pouring down (high twenties ?27/28) and there was no shade at all.
We passed several people on route, both up and down, all with varying degrees of enthusiasm - the ones coming down were happy, the ones going up not so.
For those reading previously you'll know that Jen was on medication for an itch. Well, the law of undesired consequences meant that she had now come on heat for we picked up some lecherous old guy who insisted on following us down Ruthwaite Beck - following Jen like some little terrier on a promise.

It was a long day - we spent a little over eight hours walking, two moderate ascents and descents, in blazing sunshine and no wind - it was bordering on purgatory. However, it was completed and we have another day tomorrow climbing Kidsty Pike.
Oh, to the weather people that promised us rain at about 3p.m. - you were wrong (again). I think you should be paid by results, then we may actually get some forecasts that are meaningful.

Sunday, so it must be...

After religiously eating our breakfasts (it is Sunday after-all) we prepared for what will be our longest day yet - Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale, 17 miles give or take. The day started with us swapping notes with another couple of C2C'ers over breakfast. Neil had them down as a couple of lesbian vegetarians but they turned out to be meat-eating mother and daughter (not that it implies that ate each other). We did meet them once on the path, but never saw them again.
Because of the way we had arranged our cars certain possessions had already left, and were residing at Borrowdale.This meant Jen was without her antihistamines so, because the B&B had been so good up till now, Jen asked if they had any - yes - but only a veterinary preparation for the dogs. Beggars cannot be choosers, so Jen spent the rest of the morning cocking her leg, chasing sheep and coming to heel. Neil got the diuretic (look it up) record though 'cos he needed to visit his own tree every couple of miles or so.
The day started cool and cloudy, which was a welcome relief. So the first part of the walk along Ennerdale water's south shore

and thro the tree plantation to Black Sail Youth hostel was clocked off in good order. At the hostel, taking the correct path, we headed for Loft Beck. Now, all the guide books take great glee in telling you - 1000ft of ascent in half a mile - and so you 'come' prepared for the worst. In actual fact it took us about 25 minutes and was a pussy-cat of a climb.

Once at the correct altitude the views are amazing. We could see right back to the coast (in the haze) and see almost all ot the walk done to date.
The next objective was Honister Slate Quarry. A nice place, ice-creams all round, good toilets and somewhere to sit in the shade. After that it was all down-hill to Borrowdale (actually Stonethwaite) which will be our start for tomorrow.
Tonight we are staying in Grisedale Lodge in Patterdale, with a couple of American C2C'ers. They've just had a rest day and are a day in front of us (on the ground) so we spent a pleasant ten minutes or so swapping tales.

It's amazing what you see on a walk.

Day 2 on the road.

By the time we had got to Sandwith ready for the off it was 10.15hrs and 21dC. Fortunately a breeze every now and then brought welcome relief. The first part of the route to Moor Row was easy walking - and we met our first C2C walker (an old geezer in a Malta hat who was just finishing. His words of wisdom - this is the easy bit!). A bit later we met three more, a bloke who obviously had eaten well on route, his wife and far from happy daughter.

It was around this time that we encountered Wainwright's passage. Neil said bugger Wainwright's here's mine. Unfortunately I couldn't get the camera ready fast enough!
We purchased a few extra drinks in Cleator prior to the climb up Dent Hill - which gave rise to more than a couple of red faces. At the top the view was excellent - we could see all that we had done, and where we were going.

The drop down to Nannycatch gate was steep (apparently the steepest on the route), and we were met by a bloke running up it in the company of about nine dogs. Mad! It was now about 25dC.
We lunched by the side of stream stood in a cool and welcome breeze.
The last four miles of the day were all easy walking and predominantly downhill or on the flat. We finished at 14.45hrs at Bleach Green car park (free parking) at the head of Ennerdale Water, which is where we start tomorrow.

It's funny what you see on a walk - a sunbathing mole.

S minus one

The day before the real day. We had a good drive up the M6 and then endured the 80odd minutes drive from J36 to St Bee's. The temperature was 25-26dC, very little wind and hardly a cloud in the sky.
We parked one car at Sandwith and then started our walk from St. Bee's. 'Did' the usual photos, got our feet wet in the sea, picked our stones and set off up the hill.

 

It was a pleasant five mile walk, a bit on the warm side but the views out to sea were excellent with both blue sky and sea. The gulls were nesting on the rocks, the guillemots were feeding on the sea, a hobby, kestrel and two ravens passed us by. On the landward side we had highland cattle and sheep.

Now sat in our wonderful 4* B&B at Ghyll Farm, showering, getting changed and then going out for a meal in the Community pub, Fox & Hounds, in Ennerdale Bridge.
The weather's looking good for tomorrow.

Strange what you see on a walk!

the calm before the storm

Packing - it seems with more intensity than usual (by some). I say we'll still be in Britain, so even if it all goes to pot we can just drive home again - so what's the big fuss.
Anyhow, getting kit together and into the car for tomorrow it's the big OFF. Plan to be at St.Bee's just after lunch and walk the first five miles to Sandwith (we can do it). This means that our first 'proper' day on Saturday will only be a 10 miler from Sandwith to Ennerdale Bridge and can be used to shake down rucksacks and kit before we do a real full day on Sunday from Ennerdale Bridge to Patterdale.

We're going as well!!!!!

Thought you might like to know that this trip involves four of us, introducing Neil, Jen and Narg, as well as your blog host Rob. There has been a change of plan on the clothing front with shorts and floppy hats the order of the day. Don't forget the sunblock! Okay, we're getting excited now, Dave's bedroom floor is covered in clothes, actually it looks like it used to do before he left home!

...last minute planning /panic

B&B's - check
Route finding - check
Car parking - check
Money for parking - cash
WiFi at B&B - check
Maps & books - check
Clothes - check
Walking gear & boots - check

..........not long now!